staubkorb wrote:I'm not familiar with the Legal Eagle rules, but I also see a few spots where some weight might be spared. How tight did you twist the 1/16th? If you have a rubber stripper, 0.075 might be a usable size. Is the plastic prop mandatory for the class?
A sweet looking plane that flies nicely!
Actually, Legal Eagle is one of the more challenging events to fly. They are simple rubber powered models, but the rules are different from any other class:
Legal Eagle Rules
FLYING
Models must R.O.G. from floor, best two flights to count.
DRAWING REQUIREMENTS
If you design your own Legal Eagle they must conform to the following...
Drawing must fit on one side of one sheet of legal size (8 1/2" x 14") paper.
No component parts drawing may be superimposed or overlap another and must clear one another and the edge of the paper by at least 1/8 inch.
Wing(s) and stabilizer must be drawn full span, tip to tip and fuselage drawn in its full length from nose through tail in one piece.
Fin(s) may be drawn where space allows and not necessarily attached to the side view.
Landing gear must be drawn in its place on the side view showing its full length.
No top or front view is required.
DESIGN REQUIREMENTS
Smallest wood size to be 1/16 inch square except for propeller.
Fuselage measured to its outside surface must contain a space 1" x 1.5" x 3".
Fuselage must have a cabin or open cockpit with a raised windshield of at least 30 degrees of clear or translucent material. Cockpit must be actually open, with a headrest or canopy.
Flight surfaces; Leading and trailing edges cannot parallel each other.
Tip outlines must have no straight lines except for stabilizer where a twin fin is used.
If twin fins, or two wings are used in the design, parts may be built in duplicate over the same drawing.
Jap tissue required on all non-sheeted, open framework surfaces except for fuselage surfaces covered by a flying surface directly attached to the fuselage and areas involved in an open cockpit or minimum access area to the motor. No ultra light film covering to be used, unless used for windshield or windows. Flight surfaces may be single or double covered.
Landing gear must use at least one 1 inch diameter wood wheel.
Use of motor stick(s) or tube(s) O.K. and if used, must be shown on the side view in one continuous length in the proper position.
Take a piece of American standard, legal paper (8-1/2 inches by 14 inches) and try drawing one. You get some really cute, and sometimes bizarre, designs. The 1/16 inch wood and the imaginary box limit create a built in weight penalty. Plastic props are not required but I used it instead of ballast to balance the model.
I will fly it in the contest, with a wood prop of the same weight with larger diameter and higher pitch. If I build another one I will have much lighter wing tips and elevator and rudder outlines. There are several good plans on the Internet if you want to try one.
[quote="staubkorb"]I'm not familiar with the Legal Eagle rules, but I also see a few spots where some weight might be spared. How tight did you twist the 1/16th? If you have a rubber stripper, 0.075 might be a usable size. Is the plastic prop mandatory for the class?
A sweet looking plane that flies nicely![/quote]
Actually, Legal Eagle is one of the more challenging events to fly. They are simple rubber powered models, but the rules are different from any other class:
Legal Eagle Rules
FLYING
Models must R.O.G. from floor, best two flights to count.
DRAWING REQUIREMENTS
If you design your own Legal Eagle they must conform to the following...
Drawing must fit on one side of one sheet of legal size (8 1/2" x 14") paper.
No component parts drawing may be superimposed or overlap another and must clear one another and the edge of the paper by at least 1/8 inch.
Wing(s) and stabilizer must be drawn full span, tip to tip and fuselage drawn in its full length from nose through tail in one piece.
Fin(s) may be drawn where space allows and not necessarily attached to the side view.
Landing gear must be drawn in its place on the side view showing its full length.
No top or front view is required.
DESIGN REQUIREMENTS
Smallest wood size to be 1/16 inch square except for propeller.
Fuselage measured to its outside surface must contain a space 1" x 1.5" x 3".
Fuselage must have a cabin or open cockpit with a raised windshield of at least 30 degrees of clear or translucent material. Cockpit must be actually open, with a headrest or canopy.
Flight surfaces; Leading and trailing edges cannot parallel each other.
Tip outlines must have no straight lines except for stabilizer where a twin fin is used.
If twin fins, or two wings are used in the design, parts may be built in duplicate over the same drawing.
Jap tissue required on all non-sheeted, open framework surfaces except for fuselage surfaces covered by a flying surface directly attached to the fuselage and areas involved in an open cockpit or minimum access area to the motor. No ultra light film covering to be used, unless used for windshield or windows. Flight surfaces may be single or double covered.
Landing gear must use at least one 1 inch diameter wood wheel.
Use of motor stick(s) or tube(s) O.K. and if used, must be shown on the side view in one continuous length in the proper position.
Take a piece of American standard, legal paper (8-1/2 inches by 14 inches) and try drawing one. You get some really cute, and sometimes bizarre, designs. The 1/16 inch wood and the imaginary box limit create a built in weight penalty. Plastic props are not required but I used it instead of ballast to balance the model.
I will fly it in the contest, with a wood prop of the same weight with larger diameter and higher pitch. If I build another one I will have much lighter wing tips and elevator and rudder outlines. There are several good plans on the Internet if you want to try one.